Dog Loss of appetite / Picky eaters

Dogs are known to be very smart animals. They have the habit of testing their owners whether they can get away with something and see what their limitations are. These "tests" come in different forms like bullying, ignoring their owners, and manipulation.

Maybe you're thinking, "wait, manipulation? isn't it the other way around? we are the owners and my dogs should be the one following me! no way can an animal outsmart me!" .....well, actually, there are many instances this things happen without us knowing and it's really common.

Let's focus on one particular instance where our cute innocent pets get's around manipulating us owners with their "I don't like that food, find me another one..or else i'll starve to death" trick.

Believe it or not, that's what's really going on inside your dog's head when they tend to become picky on what they eat.

Usually, once you introduce them something new, they will eat it with much gusto and you'll think that "yes! I finally found what he really wants!" then after some time, you'll notice that his appetite is getting lower and lower again until he doesn't want to eat it at all and you are back in square one.

So what can we do?! there must be something wrong here right? Ok, let's go through some check lists to see what's really causing this problem.


- Is your dog healthy? Make sure that the dog is not sick, loss of appetite is a common symptom when your dog is sick. Check his temperature, stool and activity to be certain that everything is ok. If you suspect your dog is sick then a visit to your vet is advised.

- Does your dog get enough exercise? Dogs come with different energy levels, our Bully Pit Bulls for example is classified as high energy level breed so it's very important that you walk your dog and have some form of play / exercise to vent their energy. Having good physical activities like walking, jogging, running with your dog not only Improves their appetite but also helps in preventing other behavioral problems.

- Do you have a scheduled feeding time? This is very important if you want your dogs to improve on their drive for food. It is not advisable to feed your dog whenever you want or they want. Never encourage your dog to beg for food when it's not feeding time. Set a time when food will be served to them, they may not have a clock and don't even know how to read time but believe me, they know when it's time! If you follow this, your dogs will know when it's time to eat and when will the next meal will be coming. This conditions them to give importance to the food because they know the next one won't be coming too soon.

- Do you give too much food per meal? Another important factor is how much food can your dog really consume. Do not give too much until they loose interest on the food. Make it so that the amount you give is just enough that they still want some more but the next one will be coming in the next feeding time. That way, they will be looking forward on the next meal time. Here's a good trick that works really well. Give your dog enough food that he can finish under 3-5 minutes, after 5 minutes, take out the bowl and DO NOT give it  back until the NEXT feeding time. Do this every time you give him his meal. Once he realize that if he doesn't eat it a.s.a.p. you will take it out and he'll again needs to wait for the next feeding time.


So to summarize :

- Make sure the dog is not sick and have an updated shots/deworming records.

- Exercise! Dogs need exercise. Walk or play with your dog. It's not just good for his appetite but also for your bonding and socialization.

- Scheduled feeding. This will teach them to give importance on what is given to them and know the routine of feeding times. Dogs may not know how to read a clock but they know how to tell time!

- Do not over feed your dogs. Make them realize that the food is a treat and they should always take advantage of it. Do not succumb to their drama! Healthy dogs won't let themselves starve to death. It's going to be a tough battle between owners and really persistent dogs but DO NOT GIVE IN! they will eat eventually. Follow the 5 minute rule and your dog will be eating fine again.

Pit Bull Myths and Misconception

Our beloved Pit Bull had been in the "hot spot" for years due to lack of information and false accusations of people who do not understand and knows nothing about them.

Unfortunately, the "media" who's supposed to "inform" people and educate them had been the major contributor to this falsely orchestrated perception on the dog just to get mileage on their reports.

Here are a few of the many misconceptions around.


- Pit bulls are wild and dangerous :

This is by far the most unfair and damaging misconception on the poor dog's reputation. Pit bulls were victims of media hype and bad ownership. In Fact, according to the American Canine Temperament Testing Association, the American Pit Bull Terriers had a passing score of 82.5% compared to a 77% average passing score for all breeds. Pit bulls actually achieved the fourth highest passing rate of all 122 breeds tested.


- Pit bulls have locking jaws : 

There was a study done in the University of Georgia that disproves this myth upon careful study of the scientists who performed the research. They have found no special or unique feature on a Pit Bull's jaw that will enable it to lock when they bite on to something.


- Pit Bulls have high tolerance to pain : 

A lot of people say that Pit Bulls have high pain tolerance, or simply does not feel pain at all. The misconception that a pit bull does not feel pain comes from the breed’s tendency to under react in physically stressful situations. Pit bulls were originally bred for a high level of “gameness,” meaning they will continue to try and complete a task despite physical discomfort. While many people feel a pit bull not stopping to whine or cry out during stressful training or hunting sessions is a sign of a lack of pain, it is actually a sign of the breed’s desire to complete a task and please their owners.


- Pit Bulls are bred for fighting : 

Originally, Pit Bulls were used mostly for hunting because of their gameness and occasional fighting but that was a long time ago. Yes there are still reports of dog fightings just like in the case of the Laguna Pitbulls where hundreds of dogs were rescued from a south korean dog fighting syndicate and is now in the care of the Philippine Animal Welfare Society (PAWS) and other animal groups in the Philippines. However, the majority of modern breeders choose to breed pit bulls to be family companions and not for fighting.

Dog heat cycle guide.

There are four stages of the heat cycle, Proestrus, Estrus, Diestrus and Anestrus.

It’s important to know when your dog it coming into heat and going out of heat. There are some clear signs and some subtle clues. Pay attention to your dog and learn her behavior. This will help you understand what’s going on when she 'does' come into heat.


Proestrus Stage

This stage of dog heat can last from 4-20 days. The average is 7-10 days. There are 3 common signs for a dog in heat during this stage:
Swollen Vulva: This is one of the best ways to spot the beginning of a dog heat cycle. The swelling is a significant difference over her “normal” appearance. Her teats may also swell slightly, but this is not a great heat indicator and can be tricky to spot.
Discharge: Your female may suddenly spend a lot of time licking herself. Take a tissue and wipe her vulva. If you notice red discharge, and her vulva is swollen, that’s a pretty good indicator that your dog is definitely coming into heat. It’s important to check this, since timing is everything when it comes to mating (or preventing a mating) your dog. The first day you notice the bloody discharge is called "DAY 1". Mark it on your calendar.
Suitors The third sign of heat is not found on your dog, but in the presence of other dogs. You may notice neighbor dogs hanging out around your house. They can smell your female's heat cycle. You may notice that your dog will tuck her tail often, protecting herself. She is not ready to accept a sire.


Estrus Stage

The Estrus Stage of the Dog Heat Cycle typically last from 5-14 days. The time your dog is fertile (her actual heat). At this stage, the discharge typically changes from red to straw colored. In many dogs it’s still somewhat pink, but you will notice a definite difference in color from the beginning of proestrus. This change usually occurs around day 8 or 9. Your dog will also be willing to accept a sire during this stage. She will switch her tail to the side. She may whimper and try to be outside more often than is normal for her. She is following her instinct to breed. Keep a close eye on her. Even if she is in a kennel, she can still end up pregnant.


Dogs get VERY creative during this stage. If you notice strange males in your yard, stay away from them. Bring your dog inside and wait for them to leave. When males are anxious to breed, they can be much more likely to bite. Don’t take your female to the pet store or the dog park. You can inadvertently cause problems that you really don’t want. It’s best just to keep her secluded to your yard and home. We have even seen a male sire impregnate a bitch through the holes in a chain link fence - so be very protective and cautious. Otherwise, you are going to be ordering DNA testing kits.


Diestrus Stage

The Diestrus Stage of the Dog Heat Cycle usually begins around day 24. This stage can last from 60-90 days. Your dog is no longer fertile at this point. Her discharge will change from straw colored to red and then stop completely. She still has a scent and can still attract unwanted attention, so wait until she has completely stopped bleeding before venturing into public places.


Anestrus Stage

This is the fourth and final stage of the dog heat cycle when your dog is “normal”. This stage last about 60-90 days, at the end of which, the entire heat cycle starts again.

What is Mange?

Mange is one of the most common skin disease on dogs. There are several types of mange, sarcoptic, demodectic and cheyletiellosis. Let's focus on the demodectic and sarcoptic mange.

So what is it?

- Demodectic mange is caused by a mite called demodex which lives deep inside hair follicles of our dogs. As a matter of fact, all dogs have the demodex mites but in small numbers. The problem arises when an outbreak occurs especially during puppy stage where immune system is under developed and on older dogs that have weak or compromised immune systems.

Typical signs of demodectic mange are a few localized patches of hair loss where the skin may look normal. Moderate itching may or may not be present. As the outbreak increase, hair loss starts to cover bigger parts of the dog and the itchiness intensifies.

To diagnose the condition, skin scrapings on different areas affected  needs to be performed by your veterinarian and the result/count will indicate how severe the outbreak is.

Due to it's nature, demodectic mange is not contagious to people and other animals. Mild cases often resolve on its own without medical treatment when the dog's immune system copes up and take control of the outbreak. In severe cases though, antibiotics and immune boosting supplements are given, medicated dips are likewise performed for better control of the mites.


- Sarcoptic mange is caused by microscpic mites called sarcoptes scabei mites. It burrows deep inside the skin of it's host that causes severe itchiness. The skin thickens also known as scabies.This type of mange is extremely contagious both on people and other pets. It transferred via direct contact of already infected dogs. It usually starts in the edges of the ears, abdomen, elbows and will spread in the entire body if not treated.

Diagnosis of sarcoptic mange is a bit tricky, skin scraping is just 50% conclusive because the mites are buried deep in the skin. However, treatment is fairly simple for this type of skin disease. Treatment involves a series of shots of Ivermectin, medicated dips of Mitaban also known as Amitraz and some antibiotics to avoid infection of skin wounds caused by severe itching.

Satin Balls Recipe

Satin Balls are very popular to owners who are into BARF diet or Raw feeding for their dogs. This can be used as a staple food or just an occasional treat. It's a variety of raw ingredients mixed together to give a balanced nutrition your Bully pit bull needs that is far healthier than canned or processed foods commonly available in the market.

It's pretty easy to make, just mix everything together and make balls from it depending on the size of your dog then put it in the freezer. 

When feeding time, you can simply take a few and give it straight to your dog or you can also let it thaw a bit. My dogs love it especially when the weather is really hot, it's like eating ice cream on a hot summer day. 

Satin Balls for Little Dogs

1 lb cheap hamburger patties (for high fat %)
1 and 1/3 cups cereal
1 and 1/2 cups uncooked oatmeal
1 raw egg
6 Tablespoons wheat germ
1 package unflavored gelatin
2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
2 Tablespoons unsulfured molasses



Satin Balls Half Recipe

5 lbs cheap hamburger patties (for high fat %)
1/2 large box cereal (about 6 cups cereal)
1/2 large box uncooked oatmeal (about 7.5 cups oats)
5 raw eggs
1/2 of 15oz jar wheat germ (about 2 cups)
5 packages unflavored gelatin
5/8 cup vegetable oil (this is pretty close to 2/3 cup)
5/8 cup unsulfured molasses



Satin Balls Full Recipe

10 lbs cheap hamburger patties (high fat %)
1 large box Total cereal (about 12 cups cereal)
1 large box uncooked oatmeal (about 15 cups oats)
10 raw eggs
1 15oz jar wheat germ
10 packages unflavored gelatin
1 and 1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 and 1/4 cup unsulfured molasses

VCO with Kakawate extract

Kakawate Leaves ( Madre de cacao )

In pursuit for more alternative treatment on my dog's skin problems, I stumbled on articles stating that Kakawate leaves otherwise known as Madre de Cacao had proven to be effective against skin disease on dogs. It is actually quite popular in provinces where they boil the leaves of the kakawate and use it to bath their dogs. Some, spray it on their beds to get rid of bed bugs and mites. So, it is proven that kakawate leaves does have insecticide and pesticidal properties.

So what I do with this is instead of boiling the Kakawate, I take the leaves and put in a food processor or chopper and chop it into really small pieces. You can see some juice coming out but really not that much. I then add some Virgin Coconut Oil to be the base of the solution. I then put it in an air tight container and leave it for a few days. After that, I use a strainer to get the oil and remove the chopped leaves. You can opt to leave some or take everything out.

You can also add "yellow ginger" (luyang dilaw), aloevera, the bark of "makabuhay" to make it just like the "Kalawag Potion" which is also known to be an effective home made remedy for mange.

I apply this on the problem area twice a day. You can also apply it on the dog's elbows to soften the skin and avoid developing callus. 

Borax and Hydrogen peroxide solution for mange

I would like to share to you my personal experience when one of my dog suffered from mange. At first, I followed what the common suggestions for treatment. From changing diet, applying topical creams, shampoos and anti mange soaps but all those didn't help and the condition just got worse.

So, realizing my knowledge and capacity to deal with it by my own isn't enough, so I decided to consult a veterinarian. That time, I was already giving a hypoallergenic dog food (Vitality) but the vet instructed me to change it to a "veterinary diet" type they have which is really expensive, together with a bunch of supplements, soaps, shampoo and ivermectin shots... months have passed but I didn't see great improvement considering I am spending a lot for the treatment.

I felt the treatment is really not working, I decided to go to another vet and ask for a second opinion, it took me to the same shebang, new sets of shampoo and soap combination, more shots, and now medicated bath of Amitraz were performed.

The Ivermectin shots really bothered me, I'm worried that my dog's health especially the liver gets compromised in return. Still, I followed the program they gave but I made more effort in asking around forums and researching, this time on a more natural treatment. This is when I came across the Borax and Hydrogen peroxide solution.

This made wonders to my dog's condition. I've seen great improvement on the very first week of application!

So let's start,

It's pretty simple, what you need is Borax powder, Hydrogen peroxide, water, sponge (for application) and a bucket.

I was able to buy Borax powder in a chemical store located somewhere in divisoria. It is used in making detergent soaps and cleaning agents. Note that Borax powder is different from Boric Acid.

I used this Hydrogen peroxide readily available in supermarkets or drug stores. This one is 500ml "10 volumes" concentration which is equal to 3% concentration.


First, we need to make 1% Hydrogen Peroxide solution from the 3% solution shown above. To do this, just mix 1 part of the 3% solution to 2 parts water. This will give us roughly over 1%.

After having the 1% Hydrogen peroxide solution, simply dissolve the Borax powder in it until the solution reaches a saturated state. You will know you have a saturated solution of borax and hydrogen peroxide when the borax no longer dissolve and creates a precipitate at the bottom. What I do is add 4-5 spoon full of borax and stir continuously while adding 1 scoop from time to time. Leave it for about 5 to 10 minutes then stir again to make sure the solution is really saturated.


Application :

Applying the Borax/hydrogen peroxide solution is like doing a medicated dip/bath. What I do is bath the dog using medicated soap and shampoo then rinse. Leave the dog for maybe 10 minutes and let him shake off some water on the coat. After that, I use a sponge to apply the solution on the dog. Make sure you cover the entire body including the feet, tail, armpits, toes and other hard to reach areas. Leave it on the dog and DO NOT RINSE. Repeat the process every 2 or 3 days.

If you have some solution left, you can apply it on the dog's cage specially the matting to kill the mites nested in it.

SHOWS AND EVENTS

SHOWS AND EVENTS

KENNEL / CLUB

KENNELS / CLUBS

...coming soon.

Raw diet for our dogs (BARF)

Introduction of Raw diet also known as BARF which stands for Bones And Raw Food  on dogs have been a practice of many dog owners for years. The reason behind raw feeding is primarily due to the fact that raw meat/food is a good source of live enzymes that is not present in processed food we buy at our local pet stores. This so called live enzymes greatly aids in the animal's metabolism, restoration and repair in their body. The inclusion of bones in this diet is one way of giving a natural source of calcium, fruits and vegetables are sometimes thrown in the mix as well. Some of the many benefits of raw feeding are...


- Firmer stool and less odor

- Shinier coat

- Healthier/cleaner teeth

- Better appetite

- Natural source of Calcium , Protein...

- Better digestion and absorption of nutrients

- Stronger immune system


Most commonly used on BARF or raw feeding diets are Green tripe / ox tripe, "sawdust", raw meat with bones, chicken neck / head /  back / wings, "Satin balls", eggs, fish, fruits and vegetables. In preparing a BARF diet, it's a good idea to include a variety of nutritional sources like for example including "Oils" as source of omega3, omega6 and essential fatty acids like salmon oil and cod liver oil. Vegetables on the other hand needs to be processed (bu not cooked) by using a food processor to chop the leaves into very small pieces so the nutrients in it are well absorbed by our dog.


If you are wondering about bacteria present in RAW food, don't worry, our dog's immune system is designed to fight off certain bacteria and have more resistance to it such as Salmonela and E-Coli as compared to the human body.


Try to keep it simple at first. This is particularly important for older/middle aged dogs that have been eating cooked diet most of their lives. Keep meals small to begin with and don't overfeed. Once the dog is digesting the raw meaty bones, add some vegtables and some ground meat. Maybe after one or two weeks, you can start adding other ingredients like eggs and supplements. Don't do it all at once. I suggest that with dogs fairly new to BARF diet is you stay away from the harder or fattier bones for awhile. Give them time to re-develop their digestive system first.

Be the pack leader

....Coming soon.

A Tribute to a Champion...

Philippine Bully Champion Bruno Rhino.

If you are a real bully fan in the Philippines and attended some bully dog show events, you'd definitely heard of the bad boy Bruno of the Natelac / FBI bullies Kennel.

Loved and trained by his owners/friend Mr. Nate and Angela Lacanilao, together, this couple got this bully up there to make his mark in the Philippine bully scene. Brandishing his heavy muscular frame and huge head while he gait across the ring, Bruno never ceases to amaze the judges and spectators. Witnessing this boy stack, you'll automatically know how disciplined and trained he is, it seems he's really born to be there among the best bullies in the country competing.

Bruno awarded Best Male in show
with Nate and Angela. 8/14/11

Bruno and Nate had a very special bond between them, they are best friends, a family. I once remember him (Nate) saying something like "parang anak na talaga ang turing namin sa kanya" ( He is like a son to us) so the passing of the champ shocked not only his family and club members but the entire Philippine bully community in general. 

Bruno Rhino died of cardiac arrest at the age of 2 1/2 years old. It was a huge loss to everybody due to the fact that he was in his peak when the tragedy happened. Nevertheless, the champ still managed to leave behind a good potential lineup of productions where some as young as 3 months old already showing impressive performance in competitions. One of which is FBI Ms. Full tank winning best extreme bully pup at the MPK's Post Valentine Dog show held last February 2012 at Tiendesitas Frontera Verde Pasig. Evidently, this goes to show that not only Bruno made an outstanding performance in shows, but had proven himself to be a good producer of real bullies as well.

Ch. Bruno Rhino

Ch. Bruno Rhino with Nate

Ch. Bruno and Angela

Awards

Together Forever...
In Heart, in Mind and in Flesh!
(by: Emao Clemen - P&P Tattoo)

Ch.Bruno Rhino 
10/27/2009- 5/18/2012

Complete Pedigree